Author Archives: smcnewroutesorguk_main

The Certainty of Tides – New E7 for Ferdia Earle

LOCHINVER CRAGS, Achmelvich Campsite Crags, Clean Cut:The Certainty of Tides 18m E7. Ferdia Earle. 26 Jun 2021.The beautiful blank corner to the right of Flawless has more holds than first appears, but the gear is mostly poor. Climb the slab … Continue reading

Posted in Sea Cliff, Summer | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Exciting New Route on Church Door Buttress

BIDEAN NAM BIAN, Church Door ButtressPeople Pass But Ideas Don’t Die 90m E2 5c **. Bede West, James Stops. 25 Jul 2021.An exciting line with an outrageous third pitch with the first two pitches avoiding the looser (in summer) blocks … Continue reading

Posted in Mountain, Summer | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Young Hearts Running Free on Beinn Bhuird

BEINN A’ BHUIRD, Garbh Coire, The Flume Area:Young Hearts Run Free 75m E4 **. Tim Miller, Callum Johnson. 15 Jul 2021.Climbs the upper and wider of the two leftwards diagonal cracks across a distinctive half dome-shaped buttress on the far … Continue reading

Posted in Mountain, Summer | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

New E4 on Sgurr Sgumain in Skye

Iris 40m E4 5c ***. Tim Miller. 2 Jul 2021.This brilliant and sustained route climbs the steep wall above Loch Lagan, by linking together corner and crack features. Unfortunately it suffers from seepage, but can still be climbable when mostly … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged , | Leave a comment

New Route on Dubh Loch

CREAG AN DUBH LOCH, Broad Terrace Wall:The Vulture 135m E2 *. Michael Barnard, Alan Hill. 6 Jun 2021.Good climbing between The Crow and Falkenhorst. Take plenty of small wires and cams.1. 35m 5b Follow Falkenhorst to the base of the … Continue reading

Posted in Mountain, Summer | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

SMCJ 2020 New Routes Now Online

The New Routes section from the 2020 SMC Journal is now available on the New Routes page. The associated topos are on the Topos page. Thank you to everyone who sent in new route descriptions.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Crag Photos for Scottish Winter Climbs West

Neil Adams is hard at work finalising the SMC’s next winter climbing guidebook – Scottish Winter Climbs West. He is looking for the following winter crag photographs. If you think you can help please contact Neil via newroutes@smc.org.uk The Cobbler, … Continue reading

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment